Blade Set
blade set
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Choosing The Right Circular Saw Blade
You can have a top of the line circular saw but without a good blade it doesn't amount to much. Having the right blade for the job you are doing is critical to making a clean cut and making the cut safely. Depending on the material you are cutting and the results you are looking for you have to choose a blade for your circular saw accordingly.
Generally the blade will be a standard 7-1/4" in diameter. You can get general purpose blades for under $10 but to get a high quality blade you can expect to pay $50, $75 or more.
When choosing a blade I prefer to have a thin-kerf blade since it is easier to make a cut (kerf refers to the width of the cutting teeth). I also inspect the blade to make sure there are no chips in the carbide teeth. Running your finger nail along the edge of the blade will reveal any pits that you cannot see.
The blade and teeth should have no rust and be smooth and shiny. A dirty blade requires more force to make a cut which will result in a rough cut or cause an injury. Any dirty blades should be cleaned by using an industrial cleaner. This will dissolve any pitch or gummy substances left from cutting wood.
Different circular saw blades and their uses
Masonry Blade
A masonry blade is smooth with no teeth. This is because it grinds material away rather then cuts it. When using a masonry blade you should always wear a dust mask to prevent inhaling and hazardous substances. Masonry blades are ideal for scoring concrete pavers or cutting bricks.
Plywood Blade
Ideal for cutting cabinet grade plywood or plywood with a thin veneer, plywood blades nibble away the wood rather then chew it up like a general purpose blade. A plywood blade has a lot more teeth then other types of circular saw blades, often over 70 teeth. This makes for a very clean cut with no chip-out.
Chisel Tooth Blades
These types of blades are what usually come with a low to mid range circular saw. They often have only steel teeth which cut very well when sharp but are easily dulled. They are seldom used by professional since they do not maintain their cutting edge.
Trim Blades
Primarily for finishing cuts, a trim blade has 40 to 60 teeth, each with a premium carbide tip. A trim blade cuts slower then a general purpose blade but leaves a smooth sharp edge. They are ideal for cross cutting dimensional lumber and cutting plywood.
Decking Blades
Used for trimming off decking and other premium dimensional stock a decking blade has a thin kerf with a raised shoulder. This allows it to easily cut through even the hardest pressure treated lumber or knots in cedar or teak. Most decking blades also have a radial slot which reduces warping while cutting and prevents deep saw marks.
Remodeling Blades
These blades are primarily used for demolition work. They have far less teeth then a finishing or decking blade, often as few as 10 or 12. The teeth are also very robust with square shoulders and a wide kerf. It is ideal for rough cutting and cuts where nails and other debris could be present. Since this type of blade is so aggressive there is a lot of chip out. Avoid using a remodeling blade on finishing type cuts.
General Purpose Blade
This blade is used for most general cutting. Almost every circular saw will have a general purpose blade included with it. They are great for ripping or cross-cutting but do have some tear-out so should be avoided with finishing cuts. General purpose blades will usually have 20 teeth with carbide tips and cut smoothly when sharp.
Cutting with a circular saw is one of the most common ways to rip and cross-cut lumber and plywood. However there is always a risk of kick-back. Set the depth of the blade so it is just slightly deeper then the thickness of your stock. This will reduce the risk of kick-back and other injuries.
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Accurate Woodworking Plans
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Omg, I Need New Wiper Blades!
It’s raining. Actually it’s pouring. Golf ball-sized rain droplets are pounding on your windshield. You flip on your wipers, which only make matters worse. As you bob your head, struggling to catch a glimpse of clarity through cloudy, streaked glass you will probably curse and think something like, “OMG, what is wrong with me? Why didn’t I replace these stupid things?!”
Guess what? Life doesn’t have to be this hard. Most experts say you should replace your wiper blades every six to twelve months for optimum performance and driving visibility. That’s because the materials don’t last forever-- natural rubber deteriorates over time. Halogen-hardened rubber and synthetic rubber provide longer life, but eventually fall victim to environmental factors as well. Think about it. Your wipers are exposed to nature’s elements 100% of the time. Exposure to sunlight and ozone will cause the rubber to age, even if you barely use your wipers.
The irony is you really only think about your wipers when you wished you had replaced them -- times when you vision is obscured by water, road splash, sleet or snow on the windshield. But good visibility requires wipers that are in good condition. If the wipers are chattering, streaking or otherwise failing to wipe cleanly and consistently, you need new blades -- Pronto!
But what really happens to wiper blades over time? As they age, they lose much of their flip-over flexibility thus losing their ability to wipe cleanly. They can develop a permanent set or curvature, which prevents full contact with the windshield. This is more likely to occur on vehicles that are parked outside in the hot sun all day. The sun bakes and hardens the rubber making them streak and chatter because they’ve taken a set and won’t follow the curvature of the windshield. Not only are they dangerous, but annoying.
Cold weather can also affect your blades’ life. Freezing temperatures make rubber hard and brittle, increasing the tendency to crack and split. For you snowy drivers, your wipers can become clogged with ice and snow, preventing the holder from distributing spring tension evenly over the blade. The blade then "freezes up" and leaves smudges as it skims across the glass. Driving in the snow is hard enough.
Heavy use can take a toll on your wiper blades, too. Dust, abrasives, road grime and even bug juice wear away the edge that allows the blades to wipe cleanly. As blades lose their edge, water gets under the blade and remains on the glass. The result is reduced visibility and poor wiping action.
If your blades are chattering, streaking or doing a lousy job of wiping, it is time for a replacement. Blades are cheap and easy to replace.
You should also check your windshield washer system. Do both squirters work? A nozzle could be clogged with dirt or a hose may be kinked or loose. Do the nozzles need adjusting? Does the washer pump deliver an adequate stream of solvent? The vehicle may have a weak washer pump, or a clogged, kinked or loose hose.
The wiper blade performance depends on the condition of the wiper arms and holders. The amount of spring tension on the wiper arm, the number of pressure points or claws that hold the blade, and the design of the blade itself all affect the blade’s wiping ability. If the springs in the arms are worn out, the wipers may not be pressing firmly enough to wipe your windshield clean. In this case, replacing the blades won’t make any difference because the problem is weak arms not bad blades.
About the Author
One of my favorite brands is PIAA. Consider ordering a set of PIAA wiper blades online and having them handy when your old blades need replacing. –Mike Rosania
BP poised to promote American to lead firm
BLADE NEWS SERVICES LONDON - BP is expected to announce Tuesday that American Robert Dudley, who has been overseeing oil spill recovery efforts, will replace Tony Hayward as the British oil giant's chief executive officer. Mr. Hayward, a British geologist, will be reassigned to a key job in Russia, a person familiar with the matter said Monday. Mr. Hayward has been caught in the vortex of U.S ...
How to set Main rotor blade pitch n speed on Honey bee king 3
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